From my bed on the train, I observed my wife as she moved from her bunk to the cabin floor and proceeded towards the toilet. The dim lights from outside softly illuminated her path, allowing her to locate the door handle and enter the restroom.
Little did we know that by placing our bags above the toilet, we inadvertently set the stage for an unexpected shower that drenched my wife and our belongings when she squeezed into the tight space.
Her cries of dismay from being soaked brought me back to reality, dispelling any romanticized notions I had about the Caledonian Sleeper night train experience.
While I don’t intend to criticize the Caledonian Sleeper service, which links London with various Scottish destinations, the reality did not match my expectations. Despite the scenic views of snow-covered mountains and shimmering lakes, the proximity of the standard National Rail toilet to my bed and the early morning encounters with commuters at Euston station left much to be desired.
Two years later, my wife and I embarked on the SJ night train at Stockholm Central Station for a lengthy journey to Narvik in Norway, covering over 1,500 kilometers each way.
The Narvik Stockholm night train, officially called Nattåg 94, departs from Stockholm in the evening and takes approximately 18 hours to complete the trip, passing through Sweden’s vast forests, flatlands, and swamps.
Narvik, the final destination, holds historical significance as a strategic port during World War II, where the British Navy engaged in a crucial battle against Nazi forces.
The region’s importance stemmed from its vast iron ore deposits, particularly from Kiruna, home to Europe’s largest underground iron ore mine. The ore transported via the trainline to Narvik played a pivotal role in wartime efforts.
Recently, I boarded the sleeper to Kiruna, a destination within the Arctic Circle, and found the experience to be truly remarkable.
The second-class private cabin, though initially seeming cramped, was cleverly designed with foldable bunks that created additional space. The journey allowed us to relax, enjoying the picturesque Swedish landscapes and passing through unique towns like Bastuträsk.
Although Sweden’s scenery may differ from Scotland’s, it offers a diverse and captivating landscape, from expansive lakes to ancient forests and imposing mountain ranges.
The SJ train, while not new, exuded a nostalgic charm with its vintage feel and practical amenities. Unlike the Caledonian Sleeper, the SJ cabins featured separate shower facilities, enhancing comfort and convenience for passengers.
After a restful night’s sleep and a refreshing shower, I explored the buffet car, where I enjoyed the scenic views and the relaxing ambiance.
The SJ night train from Stockholm to Kiruna offers different accommodation options, starting from 1,125 SEK for a couchette and 1,695 SEK for a second-class sleep carriage.
For bookings, visit www.sj.se/en.